Overpowering our sun is a tall order even with the most powerful of studio strobes.
So to attempt that with small flash units or speedlites that run off 4AA batteries requires either the sun to be covered by clouds or one has to wait till the sun is past its most powerful noon hour.
In case there are those of you reading this wondering why is this desirable, the answer is for control.
One of the techniques I teach during my Small Flash Lighting workshop is how to change the mood and feel of a scene.
When relying strictly on available light to make pictures, you constantly have to find backgrounds that are not lit or backgrounds that are lit in such a way it is less subdued against your subject.
Remember, in your scene, whatever isn’t lit is less of a distraction.
For my pictures below which were taken at about the same time as Steve’s, I made sure to use my longest focal length lens so I could blur out the backgrounds. (The longer the focal length, the shallower the depth-of-field)
Steve used 55m to 200 mm Nikon lens but set his lens at the 55 mm setting.
I picked up my 80-200 Canon zoom and set mine at 175mm.
I also used the High Shutter Speed Sync mode on my Canon 600EX-RT Speedlite which was fitted with a 1/4 Color Temperature Orange gel to give me a warm late evening look.
I intentionally raised the shutter speed by 3 f-stops. The ambient metered at 1/250. I set my shutter speed at 1/2000sec.
High Shutter Speed Sync has limitations and one of them is that the Speedlite has to be very close to your subject.