Once you have a handle on getting predictable well-exposed pictures with your Speedlight off-camera, that’s when the fun really begins.
It’s a matter of finding willing subjects to be in front of your camera.
Yes, we’d all like to work with a shirtless David Beckham or a bikini clad Aishwarya Rai but that will have to wait.
At this point, you need to practice.
Wireless or Hardwire?
If you choose hardwire, it will be cheaper and exposure controll will no doubt be easier.
More importantly you won’t get EMF interference.
(During my Small Flash Lighting workshop, when I had 10 photographers flooding the auditorium with wireless signals, we had some issues with Speedlights not triggering)
You get i-TTL (Nikon) or E-TTL (Canon) and even have High Shutter Speed synch capability because the cord fools the camera and the flash into thinking they’re physically connected.
Best of all down the road should you elect to buy another Speedlight from Nikon or Canon (OEM), you can probably use one as the Master and the other as the Slave, again simplifying your lighting setups.
If you’re not using OEM (original Equipment Manufacturer) Speedlights and opting for Vivitar, Sygma or some other brand, you have to be careful.
Some third party Speedlights have voltage that can harm your camera.
In that instance your only option is radio slaves.
Wireless, radio or infra-red, systems use 1 transmitter and 1 receiver with options to add as many receivers as you have Speedlights.
Spring for 2 receivers off the bat, if you can.
That will give you more flexibility.
Continue reading Beyond one speed light setups